Lofoten, Norway: A Landscape Photographer’s Dream

Due to the pioneering adventures of a few, the Lofoten Islands have become a winter magnet for landscape photographers. Light has begotten this new pilgrimage. And February is the high season. The month commences with 5 hours of daylight and ends with 10. The arc of the sun is low with the potential for casting rich light throughout much of the day. Infuse this winter light with landscapes of jagged, snow covered peaks abruptly enclosing a populated archipelago of fishing islands and you are presented with endless compositional possibilities. The brightly coloured waterside cabins or “rorbuer” add an extra special touch. It’s almost though Lofoten has been created by Pixar for landscape photographers. However, Lofoten very much retains it’s functional, fishing roots.

From beyond Norway, a visit to Lofoten involves 3 flights: to Oslo, Oslo to Bodo and the short, propeller plane hop from mainland Norway to Leknes. It’s a long day, so on arriving in the tiny, informal airport it was a relief that the car rental representative had one customer and one car. We were upgraded to a jeep, parked just outside the terminal building. Not far on the way to our first destination Hamnoy, we mustered the energy to push a trolley through the REMO1000 supermarket. A 45 minute drive later, we were unpacking in the most homely, wooden lodge or “rorbuer” one could imagine – partially perched on stilts at the water’s edge beneath the looming presence of Festhelltinden mountain. Unquestionably the most breathtaking location at which I’ve ever stayed.

The short (10km) stretch of narrow road between Hamnoy bridge and A (pronounced Oir) is undoubtedly one of the most stunningly beautiful places on Earth. Photographically, 3 nights allows a light scratch of the surface. The village of A is largely closed to tourists in February. You could spend a day photographing the rorbuer cupping the harbour here. But we were on the hunt for a view of distant peaks, coastal rocks and swirling sea. Initially I couldn’t find the location, but a closer inspection of Google maps brought us to the campground and a narrow path leading to rocky shore. Heavy clouds and snow enhanced the scene, the sea was swirling furiously at my feet. I left very much contented with the images taken in camera but at home they appeared static and lifeless, the very opposite of my time there.

Cloud and snow descended as we drove back to Hamnoy. I had noticed two rorbuer on the way that had photographic potential but waited to come back towards the end of blue hour. The lights were switched on outside as dark clouds enveloped the mountains. Delighted with the image I made my way back for the evening.

It snowed lightly all night. The morning shot at Hamnoy was stark – darks and whites. I had seen excellent images taken beneath the bridge but I had forgotten to venture there. Onward to Sakrisoy.

The sky was heavy and brooding as I negotiating my way through thick snow up the gentle hill that overlooks the island. There is no foreground per se needed here but I used the 3 flagpoles in the bottom left third to compensate. Bluish tones in the sky gently contrast against the topaz hues of the water. Delighted again but the weather was about to change for the remainder of the trip. Dreaded blue skies – blue indeed.

Skagsanden Beach and it’s nearby red church is one of the closest north facing beaches most accessible to Hamnoy. The afternoon sky was cloudless and an icy wind bore sand into the air making the business of setting up a tripod, camera and filters challenging. The adjacent mountain makes a perfect backdrop and it’s reflections in the water leave little else to think about whilst composing an image.